I’m not sure how to describe Nicosia on a Friday evening…and early evening by Cypriot standards. Although Nicosia is only a medium sized city (300K) it is very cosmopolitan. The downtown is alive and reminds me of Manhattan – probably somewhere between east 77th and 83rd – but with a moat and a 16th century walled fort. As we wandered the streets I heard the unexpected – US dialect English. Tourists! But I also heard Tagalog, Chinese, Greek, and numerous other languages. But the thing that caught my eye was the multi-color strobing crucifix at street-side toy vendor. And I thought I’d seen it all.

Our dinner experience Friday night was another sign of how small the world has become and the need to learn to minister in a multi-cultural/national environment. We found a Mexican restaurant in the Old City – literally a stones throw from the entrance to the UN Neutral Zone. It was a rather elegant place, and the food was phenomenal – probably the best Mexican food I have ever had in my life (and I grew up in the American southwest). In the middle of dinner the muslim call to prayer could be heard as clear as a bell. Most people didn’t notice or didn’t pay attention to it. But it caught both Cindy’s attention and my attention – Mexican, Turkish-Muslim, and Cypriot…not to mention the tourists we passed on Ledras Street. Talk about small.

The level of passion in the conversations I witnessed, but couldn’t understand, was beyond what you see it the US, even in Manhattan. These people live life…not work…life. As I mentioned in my first dispatch, people are important and I’m learning that more each day.

Had an interesting conversation as I was introduced to my bank manager the other day…oh yeah, I forgot, being “introduced” is an important social step. No introduction, no bank account – even when you’re ready to deposit a sizeable check. But, back to the conversation, when he found out I was the new “bishop” for our church he noted that Cyprus was losing it’s faith, but it was the church’s fault. To many do’s and don’ts, and a church with what we would classify as too many unrelated business interest and income sources. The latest fiasco was the revelation that some monks from a nearby monastery were caught enjoying themselves at a rather posh hotel outside Athens – one owned by the church no less. It’s no wonder my bank manager is disaffected, as are so many others.

On the domestic side: European washing machines are very interesting and in most cases, very small. Although I have seen larger ones at the Home Center. Ours holds one pair of my pants, a couple shirts, and maybe a pair of underwear. But I’ll tell you, they are quiet and the RPM’s on the spin cycle are unbelievable. They’re almost dry when they come out. Which helps given we don’t have a dryer. The other odd part about this is doing laundry on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday. Those are the days we have water from the main coming directly to the building. The rest of the week we draw from a large storage tank on the roof. If you do laundry on the off days you draw the water level down pretty quick – and in the summer it could mean you run out…not a good thing!

When you live in a 16th Century city modern piping and waste disposal isn’t always available. Even some of the most modern facilities in the old city have signs that say, “Please Do Not Put Any Paper Products in the Toilet” – and they’re written in English for the tourists’ sake. And they mean “no”. There’s a little can – usually with some fancy bag to collect waste and reduce the smell. A 2” direct commercial line to a toilet would be a wonderful thing. (Luckily we can dispose of paper in the more normal way at our apartment.)

We’re starting to develop relationships – which is interesting given our short time here. But it’s also necessary. It’s amazing how alone being in a foreign country can make you feel. Especially one where family and locale (village/part-of-town) are so important. Many of the people in the congregation have known each other for years, in both personal and professional situations. Others, like the young British couple that hosted us after church on Sunday, are short timers and have to develop relationships quickly.

Speaking of Sunday, it was interesting having cold drinks in a park near the church. It again showed how important family is in this culture and in Europe in general. The level of parent-child interaction was fun to watch. As I’ve mentioned previously, everything closes on Sunday, so families do things together. There are no kids soccer matches or Little League, and the mall is closed so even the teens are at home. There’s a lot to be said for this lifestyle…even though a lot of folks in the states might consider it boring. They might want to reconsider how they look at life.

Wednesday (October 21, 2009) – You know those little cars with loud exhausts and even louder stereos? Well they’re a cross cultural experience – they have them here. And they play a wide range of US, UK, and Greek rock – as well as some rap. Though I’m not sure how the sociology behind the African American/Ghetto experience applies to a bunch of white Europeans who’ve spent significant cash on a car (they are EXPENSIVE here) as well as on a stereo that I can clearly hear 100ft from the road and 5-stories up. Just one of those things that boggle the mind.

Funny, as some things get ordinary other new experiences pop up. Yesterday went to DMV to begin the process to get our Cypriot drive’s licenses – which we can’t get until we’ve been here six months and have our “pink slip” – our resident alien permit. So now I have a new meaning to the term “pink slip” and realize, I’m a “foreigner.” But a more welcome one, because I’m not from SE Asia seeking a job as domestic help – which has it’s own undertones as you can imagine.

So we wandered over to immigration next to begin the process to get our “pink slip.” Although there really isn’t a polite way to phrase it I will, for younger and gentler readers: What a hole in the wall. Hand written signs, pealing paint, the rudest people in the world – even by Cypriot standards, it was obvious the person from our congregation that was carting us around was embarrassed by this. And then they give you entry forms to fill out…all in Greek. So we took our forms and I need to get the church to fill them out as my employer and then we can turn them in. I can hardly wait to see the guy who yells all the time again…it reminded me of Seinfeld: “No soup for you!” We did have a good laugh about it at small group tonight.

The other odd thing is the feral cat population – it’s HUGE! The city is actually overrun with them. They’re everywhere. Especially where there are dumpsters Cindy and I actually cared for a feral cat back in Charlottesville – “Panther.” Good cat never did totally domesticate him. Our old neighbors care for him now. The ones here are the same yet different, they’re like little lion prides hovering over their turf. Sad as it is they’re going to have to do something because it’s only going to get worse. Given the population my bet is that catch and spay or neuter is going to be an option.

Vice is a going industry here. Bookies are EVERYWHERE. There are half-a-dozen within two minutes of our front door. What was hilarious was there was a “convoy” of government Mercedes stopped at one up the street yesterday…caused a huge traffic jam because they blocked a lane to park. Guys with ill-fitting suits and noticeable bumps, uniformed officers, and three BIG Mercedes. One of my congregants was actually caught in the traffic jam. Also think the sex-trade here is legal…which accounts for one of the big problems here: human trafficking. Big money maker on the occupied side of the island. So much for middle east moralism and condemnation of the west. We don’t see a lot of it here in Nicosia…it shows it’s ugly head in the tourist resorts…with Brits and Russians being the big customers. Sad the things cultures will do to draw tourists.

Learned something funny, “treats” for the older generation (my age and up) are not sweet. They tend to be stuffed with things like olive paste, haloumi or feta cheese, or raisins. A traditional Cypriot breakfast is peasant bread, olive paste, fruit, and coffee. MOST people here are not traditionalists – cereal is a BIG seller at the store.

It’s odd being Mr. Everything after working at big place like Trinity in Charlottesville and then a medium church like Grace – also in Charlottesville. Also realized you have to have a schedule and I’m starting to lock one it. Looks like Friday is going to be my day off – which means my work week is Saturday afternoon through close-of-business on Thursday. Like it because my off time coincides with two of the slower days here.

You learn to rely a lot on prayer in a place like this. The language barriers and the constant turnover in the congregation makes ordinary ways of thinking and doing things impossible. So dependence on God is a must…as is patience because things move slowly here, both in the church and in life. So if you’re the impatient, driven type, ministry in the eastern Mediterranean is not for you. Not sure what God’s plan is – especially since we’ve only been here two-and-a-half weeks. I’m hoping I’m not just the plow horse and get to see what kind of crop gets harvested.

Terry Burns, Pastor, Nicosia Community Church
[email protected]

Editors Note: Terry is a PCA Minister and a member of Blue Ridge Presbytery in Western Virginia.